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#21
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Another option instead of 1000 grit is to use steel wool (like a pot scrub but no soap). this would dull the finish but would be a bit of work. Can also use on aluminium, stainless and chrome.
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#22
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Quote:
If I were going to try and copy the finish on that bike I think i would stick with sand blasting with very fine sand. |
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#23
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...........Or you can POST spray with an additive called MATTE finish for clear automotive clears.
It basically adds a flattened finish that you can control by coats or mixture content. Cheers,Vinny
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Seeking Exellence ! |
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#24
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Or you could do it right and use a release agent made for producing matte finishes.
Will still release easy because the mold stays smooth, and won't damage the finished part because there's no abrading. |
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#25
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Does a sand blasted or shot peened mold cause demolding issues? Wouldn't steel wool or fine emery paper cause a fine streaky finish? I imagine some form of media blasting of the finished part would five the best matt surface finish.
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#26
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It has already been said that if you buy/use the correct mold release agent the part will come out with a matte finish.
Why damage the mold or modify the mold? Just use the right mold release. geeesh
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Despite the cost of living, it's still popular |
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#27
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Any particular products (Matt finish release agents) you guys use. Its hard to find info on these types of products in Australia.
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#28
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I look on here quite a bit and decided I should post a pic of a bike I customized at christmas- approx 50hrs of sanding/painting/polishing to get the look I wanted on this 'MCR' (Monocoque Carbon Road) bike built by Giant bicycles in 1998 and designed bike Mike Burrow in 1988 (yes 1988!)
It was orignally blue with masses of excess resin (with a black tint/pigment) to hide any potential carbon blemishes that go hand in hand with high volume production. enjoy! Ps yeah it gets lots of looks when riding it ![]() |
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